A Clinical Anti-Ageing Comparative Study of 0.3 and 0.5% Retinol Serums: A Clinically Controlled Trial.

BACKGROUND: Retinol influences the process of keratinization of the epidermis, which improves stratum corneum structure and reduces transepidermal water loss. It also significantly enhances mature skin by brightening hyperpigmentation and reducing the signs of photoageing. Cosmeceuticals are intended to both provide aesthetic effects for the skin and allow dermatological treatment. The aim of the study was to assess the rejuvenating effect of retinol serum on facial skin at concentrations of 0.3 and 0.5%, as well as any improvements in skin brightening and elasticity. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Thirty-seven volunteers were included in the study, after confirming tolerance. The novel formula was applied once daily to the face for a period of 12 weeks: one retinol concentration on the left side and the other on the right. The initial study with liquid crystal formula (study vehicle) was carried out for 8 weeks on 28 volunteers. Treatment efficiency was evaluated at baseline, and 56 and 84 days following treatment using the multi probe adapter and Fotomedicus imaging system. PRIMOS was used to measure skin surface roughness. The visual analogue scale method enabled the results to be determined by 3 independent specialists. RESULTS: Skin hyperpigmentation, unevenness, and wrinkles gradually decreased over the course of treatment, both on the left and right parts of the face. Adverse events were predominantly mild or moderate skin irritation. More frequent and more intense symptoms were observed on the left side (0.5%). CONCLUSION: Retinol in liquid crystal formulation is safe and provides significant clinical benefits associated with unification of skin colour, overall skin tone, skin elasticity, and moisture. Regular use of retinol typically results in brightening of the skin and reduced signs of ageing. The objective findings confirmed the effectiveness of the procedures.

An evaluation of the physicochemical parameters and the content of the active ingredients in original formulas containing retinol.

INTRODUCTION: Three original cosmetic formulations containing retinol as an active component with liquid crystal, lamellar, and lipid bases were prepared. The formulas contain different concentrations of retinol, that is, 0.5%, 0.3%, and 0.15%. OBJECTIVES: The aim of the study was to evaluate a spectrophotometric method for assessing the quantity of retinol in the nine cosmetic products and to determine the viscosity of each formula. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The formulations were tested for stability; final product testing was preceded by sample weighing and pH measurement as well as exposure to the light source from xenon lamp that maps solar radiation in the range of 310-800 nm. Microbiological purity test was performed according to the PN-EN ISO 29621:2011 method and viscosity carried out using a cone-plate digital rheometer (DV-III Brookfield, version 3.0) on 0.5 cm3 emulsion samples at 32°C. The retinol content in preparations was assayed by UV spectrophotometry. RESULTS: Each of prepared cosmetic products with retinol storing in a room temperature occurred to be stable. The liquid crystal emulsion has the higher viscosity than lamellar and lipid emulsions. Although the retinol concentration in lipid serum was determined with high accuracy, the method has some limitations associated with differences between the lipid cosmetic base and the lamellar and liquid crystal sera. Nevertheless, the UV spectrophotometric method described herein is a simple and highly accurate approach for determining the retinol content in lipid cosmetics: Its coefficient of correlation was R2  = 0.9982 with a relative standard deviation (n = 3) in the range of 0.5%-1.5%. CONCLUSION: The presented UV spectrophotometric method represents an effective tool for fast and accurate determination of retinol content in lipid formulations. Probably, the method could be used in studies of other retinol-based preparations, for example, medications, and for determining the effective life of retinol-containing products in storage.

Randomized parallel control trial checking the efficacy and impact of two concentrations of retinol in the original formula on the aging skin condition: Pilot study.

BACKGROUND: The aging process is defined as natural, biological, progressive, and physiologically irreversible phenomena occurring in the body. OBJECTIVE: We attempted to evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of treating signs of the aging skin using retinol 0.15% and 0.3%. Retinol was added to the original, developed liquid crystal formula. METHODS: Patients at two sites (n = 20, n = 20) presenting signs of aging applied a novel formulation of retinol at 0.15% (on the left) and 0.3% (on the right) concentrations daily to their faces for 2 months. An expert blinded evaluation of images was carried out after 8 weeks. Tolerability was assessed throughout the whole study. Positive results of the observational pilot study guaranteed a follow-up trial with the use of the higher concentration and another parallel study. RESULTS: In the observational pilot study, most of the participants showed an improvement in the overall skin condition. These improvements were assessed after 4 and 8 weeks. Those observed after 56 days were more remarkable than those identified 28 days, however, without any statistical significance. Application of retinol formula 0.3% and serum 0.15% gives similar results after 8 weeks of daily care. Both products improve the overall skin condition considerably, even the skin color, hydration, and radiance. In a VAS assessment, the number of wrinkles decreased and skin discoloration was reduced. Side effects such as burning, dryness, pruritus, and erythema during the 8-week study period were minimal. CONCLUSIONS: The topical formulation of liquid crystal serum with retinol 0.15% and 0.3% improves the overall skin condition after 8 weeks. Burning, pruritus, dryness, and erythema caused by the application of retinol 0.15% and 0.3% concentrations were minimal. Nevertheless, there were no significance changes found between the left and right side of the face. These encouraging results justify a longer-term study to determine whether topically applied retinol 0.3% can provide more benefits as compared to those observed after topical application of retinol 0.15%.

A blinded study assessment of the efficacy of an original formula with retinol in combination with sonophoresis.

An appropriately designed cosmetic product and regimen of treatment can improve facial skin appearance and provide good tolerability. The aim of the study was to evaluate the effect of 0.3 and 0.5% retinol in liquid crystal formula, applied with sonophoresis, on mature skin. Serum with various concentrations of retinol was applied to the left and right sides of the face and treated with ultrasound. The treatments were performed once a week for a period of 7 weeks. The skin condition before and after treatment was compared using the Fotomedicus system. The Visual Analogue Scale method enabled the results to be assessed by three independent specialists. The Multi Probe Adapter system was used to evaluate the efficacy of a series of treatments. Subjective assessment of volunteers identified perceived improvement of skin conditions. In addition, treatment was associated with greater skin moisture level, reduced wrinkling and decreased skin discoloration. Mild side effects appeared mainly after the first treatment and on the left side of the face with 0.5% retinol. More significant results may be obtained by extending the treatment duration in longer-term studies. Nonetheless, the findings confirmed the effectiveness of the procedures.

Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments.

Vitamin A is the first vitamin approved by the Food and Drug Administration as an anti-wrinkle agent that changes appearance of the skin surface and has anti-aging effects. Vitamin A is in a group of fat-soluble substances and belongs to the category of retinoids. Apart from retinol, that group includes structurally related substances with the biological properties of retinol. Since the biological activity of the substances differs, for the purpose of standardization, it is given in retinol equivalents. Vitamin A and its derivatives are among the most effective substances slowing the aging process. Retinoids regulate the cell apoptosis, differentiation and proliferation. Anti-wrinkle properties of retinoids promote keratinocytes proliferation, strengthen the protective function of the epidermis, restrain transepidermal water loss, protect collagen against degradation and inhibit metalloproteinases activity. Retinoid activity is related to high affinity for nuclear receptors: RAR - retinoid acid receptors and RXR - retinoid X receptors.

Evaluation of selected skin parameters following the application of 5% vitamin C concentrate.

BACKGROUND: Ascorbic acid is a substance with confirmed anti-free-radical properties. It triggers the collagen synthesis, has a depigmenting effect and seals blood vessels. All these properties have a significant effect of the skin's appearance. The characteristic traits of capillary skin include telangiectasias as well as erythema, which might consolidate in the future, along with the feeling of burning and increased skin sensitivity. OBJECTIVES: Study and evaluation of selected parameters of capillary skin after the application of 5% vitamin C concentrate throughout the period of 6 weeks with the use of instrumental tests and questionnaires. METHODS: The research was conducted on a group of 30 women ranging from 30 to 60 years of age with capillary skin indicating visible signs of erythematous plaques. The concentrate was applied once a day. Analyses of skin conditions were conducted four times: before the launch of the research D(0), after two 2D(14), after four 4D(28), and after 6 D(42) weeks of application. The research was conducted with the use of Mexameter MPA equipment, which was used to measure changes in the intensity of erythematous plaques. The depth of wrinkles was measured by PRIMOS system (two times D0 and 6D(42). The research also used VISIA system which allowed to perform visual and numeral skin analyses. Each research was finalized with a questionnaire which provided a subjective evaluation of the examined product among participants. RESULTS: Significant reduction in erythema has been widely recorded. After 2 weeks, erythema dropped by 9%. After 4 weeks, it decreased by 16% and by 21% after 6 weeks. The concentrate's efficiency in diminishing erythematous plaques was confirmed by photographs generated by VISIA photograph system. Thanks to PRIMOS, decrease in both depth and volume of nasolabial folds was recorded in 87% of participants after 6 weeks of research. CONCLUSION: 5% vitamin C concentrate is effective in treating capillary and photograph-aging skin. It decreases erythema and telangiectasias as well as triggers the shallowing of skin wrinkles.

An evaluation of the antiaging properties of strawberry hydrolysate treatment enriched with L-ascorbic acid applied with microneedle mesotherapy.

BACKGROUND: Mature skin is characterized by a loss of elasticity, hyperpigmentation, and dehydration. L-ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of collagen type I, inhibits melanogenesis, and helps to maintain correct skin hydration. Combining microneedle mesotherapy with the application of preparations rich in vitamin C results in better therapeutic effects due to the improved absorption of active substances. The study evaluates the effectiveness of the application of strawberry hydrolysate enriched with L-ascorbic acid using microneedle mesotherapy. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Seventeen volunteers aged 45-70 years underwent a series of four microneedle mesotherapy treatments with vitamin C serum, performed every 10 days. The 20% L-ascorbic acid solution (pH = 3.5) was prepared immediately before application. After the treatment, the participants gave a subjective assessment of the effectiveness. Cutometer® was used to measure skin elasticity and firmness, Corneometer® to measure skin hydration, and Mexameter® skin tone. RESULTS: The results of the survey showed improvements in skin hydration and elasticity. In vivo studies confirmed the effectiveness of serum and the impact of the active substance on skin firmness and elasticity, the degree of hydration and skin tone. CONCLUSION: Microneedling with vitamin C improves skin tone, hydratation and firmness, and decreases the visibility of hyperpigmentation.

Preliminary randomized controlled trial of antiaging effects of l-ascorbic acid applied in combination with no-needle and microneedle mesotherapy.

BACKGROUND: The epidermis is keratinized stratified squamous epithelium covered by hydro-lipid barrier. Vitamin C is a water-soluble antioxidant which protects skin from oxidative damage and rejuvenates photo-aged skin. There are different options of improving active substance penetration through the stratum corneum of the epidermis. One of them is noneedle mesotherapy which is a non-invasive rejuvenation technique involving electric pulses, electroporation, and ultrasounds. The use of these physicals factors results in deeper penetration of active ingredients. The other one is micro-needle mesotherapy which is nonsurgical therapy, which could cause the controlled inflammation. Micro channels are formed by needles during the skin puncture, that facilitate penetration of the active ingredients. AIMS: The aim of the study was to assess the efficacy of L-ascorbic acid applied in combination with no-needle and micro-needle mesotherapy in anti-aging therapy. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This study involved 17 healthy volunteers, 2.5 ml of serum containing 20% L-ascorbic acid with hydrate from strawberries was used topically in every of 4 treatments. No-needle mesotherapy was applied on the left half of the face while microneedle mesotherapy in combination with the same serum was performed on the right half of face. RESULTS: In vivo studies confirmed the effectiveness of both methods. CONCLUSION: The impact of active substance on skin firmness and elasticity as well as the degree of hydration and skin tone was more efficient after micro-needle mesotherapy.

Dual Functional Capability of Dendritic Cells - Cytokine-Induced Killer Cells in Improving Side Effects of Colorectal Cancer Therapy.

The aim of cancer therapy is to eradicate cancer without affecting healthy tissues. Current options available for treating colorectal cancer (CRC), including surgery, chemotherapy or radiotherapy, usually elicit multiple adverse effects and frequently fail to completely remove the tumor cells. Thus, there is a constant need for seeking cancer cell-specific therapeutics to improve the course of cancer therapy and reduce the risk of relapse. In this review we elaborate on the mechanisms underlying the immunotherapy with dendritic cells (DCs) and cytokine-induced killer (CIK) cells, and summarize their effectiveness and tolerability available clinical studies. Finally, we discuss the up-to-date combinatorial adoptive anti-cancer immunotherapy with CIK cells co-cultured with DCs that recently showed encouraging efficacy and usefulness in treating malignant disease, including CRC.

The assessment of the effect of a cosmetic product brightening the skin of people with discolorations of different etiology.

BACKGROUND: Hyperpigmentations are disorders displayed with a change in the color of the skin, its strange shape, the lack of symmetry, and irregular placement. They appear no matter on the age, gender, and often as a congenital defect. Disorder connected with overproduction of melanin by pigmentary cells. The change of color is due to endogenous and exogenous cause. OBJECTIVES: The aim of this thesis was to conduct a research in vivo. This will allow to judge the effectiveness of the cosmetic product which brightens the skin with hyperpigmentation problems. The characteristics of dermocosmetics were tested on people with various etiology of hyperpigmentation. The aim of the research was to assess the effect of the active substances used daily on skin hyperpigmentation. METHODS: The tests were carried out on groups of patients with hyperpigmentations. The application of the pharmaceutical and the use of specific apparatus measurements were taken on every medical checkup. A survey was conducted to assess the changes in the face, neck, and neckline skin. The research was based on the apparatus analysis of the skin condition (MPA® , VISIA® ). RESULTS: Regular application of the pharmaceutical caused brightening of hyperpigmentations (P < 0.05). General improvement in skin condition was also observed - the increase in skin elasticity, smoothness, and the enhancement of hydration levels. CONCLUSIONS: Dermocosmetics for people with hyperpigmentation are an essential part of their medical treatment. In case of epidermal hyperpigmentation, the recipe of individually chosen and tested combination of ingredients enables us to reach satisfactory results.